Kumano Kodo – Nakahechi Route, Japan

By The Walking Man Down Under On

So after spending a short time in Los Angeles, in March 2019, I flew from LA to Osaka with Japan Airlines. As previously commented, I had decided to try and do self guided hikes, so again booked with World Expeditions for a Kumano Kodo, Coast to Coast Self Guided trip. It was for 10 days and included accomodation, luggage transfer and most meals.

Having landed in Osaka, I had booked a hotel in Wakayame so I had easy access to the station to Tanabe the next day. Luckily for me, it was cherry blossom season and with a short walk from the hotel was the Wakayame Castle which was lovely to see with the cherry blossoms in full colour.

Wakayame Castle and Cherry Blossom
Cherry Blosson at the castle

After a nights rest, I caught the train down to Tanabe, about a two hour trip. I checked in at the local information centre and received my maps and directions. I was advised that at 3.00pm, I was to meet my guide who would take me around Tanabe and to my Purifying Ceremony at the Shinto Temple. This I was not aware of, but really enjoyed and certainly set me up for a fantastic trip.

After leaving Tanabe on local roads, I started out on to the Pilgrims trail

The hike was 10 days, with 2 days days travelling and a one day rest day at Hongu, covering just over 100kms. Most days were not long, the longest day being the first day out of Tanabe, which was 22kms. Most days quite short, but track was in some places quite rough as it was cobbled and an old Pilgrims Path.

Beautiful trail edged by lovely foliage
The path changes to a rough path
A peaceful walk on a lovely trail

The solitude and beauty however was great, walking through the forests which had been walked for centuries by Pilgrims was very spiritual and gave you a real calmness.

Huge Shinto gate at Hongu
Steps up to Shinto Temple at Hongu
Shinto Temple at Hongu
The Cobbled Pilgrim path
View from trail across to river
Beautiful calmness on the trail, walking through the pines.

With typical Japanese efficiency, everything worked like clockwork, buses and trains arrived spot on time, my luggage was always at the next accomodation when I arrived and meals were served right on time. Also most of the accomodation had their own Onsens, which were great to slowly slide into after a good days hiking.

The famous three tied Temple and waterfall at Nachi
The steps down from the Temple at Nachi. Would have been a tough walk up !!

The temples were also beautiful and the exercise of getting the stamps in your Credencial became a joy as most were also quite beautiful. After overnighting in Katsuura, the next days train journey back to Wakayame was nice and I booked back into the same hotel I had used on arriving in Osaka at Wakayame.

The flight back to LA from Osaka with Japan Airlines, was good and on arriving back in LA my wife told me she had booked us a few days in Las Vegas ! So I went from being on a Shinto Pilgrimage to Sin City ! That Life !!

This was first attempt to self guide which I enjoyed immensely, being able to set my own pace, enjoy the peace of the trail and stop when I wanted too. I guess I only went half way, as I had booked through a tour operator and let them do all the bookings and not carry my pack either. That would be another challenge for another trek.